Macar-Uni Butter Noodles
What if you took a low-maintanence comfort food like butter noodles - and corrupted it in the most decadent and scandalous way? This pasta creation has almost nothing to do with the classic butter noodles you know—it just starts with the same humble foundation. If you've been wanting to sample the sultry, complex, and umami flavor profile of sea urchin roe, aka uni but you still want to play it halfway safe, say hello to the gateway dish of your dreams.
The uni of a sea urchin are the 5 golden lobes inside the hard, spine-covered shell. They are the gonads, or the reproductive organs, of the sea urchin. San Diego commercial divers harvest the red sea urchin, which is the largest species of sea urchin.
In 1971, red sea urchins were considered pests that damaged kelp forests in California. NOAA fisheries biologist Susumu "Sus" Kato recognized their potential value in Japanese export markets. He worked with California fishermen to develop proper harvesting and handling techniques that would meet Japanese market standards. While many urchin divers along California continue to sell to export markets, some San Diego commercial divers sell to the public and to local restaurants. This gives you an opportunity to try local uni and experience the unique and subtle flavor experience, described as slightly sweet and very fresh. While most opt to eat uni raw and on its own with minimal modification, it can also make a great pasta sauce. This recipe is an easy starting point for uni as a sauce, and can be modified to your preference to make sophisticated pasta dishes beyond simple “Uni Butter Noodles.”
Fresh uni sizzling with melted butter, before the addition of cream, wine, and mirin.
How to Prepare:
Crack and clean two red sea urchins purchased from San Diego's commercial dive fishermen. Set aside lobes of uni for the sauce.
Start your pasta water boiling in a large pot, adding a dash of salt. Cook your noodles as per instructions on the box, to your preferred doneness (we like al dente).
Get a pat of butter going in a small saucepan over medium heat. Add a spoonful of minced garlic to cook until fragrant.
Lower the heat and add uni, stirring vigorously to break it up and keep it from sticking.
Add half & half or heavy whipping cream, white wine or sake, and mirin. Using a whisk, mix the combination smooth, and stir continuously to keep it from burning.
Taste and season to your liking with salt. Adjust levels of cream, wine, and mirin to your preference.
Once fully blended and incorporated, pour sauce over cooked pasta noodles! Stir to combine, then plate and top with garnishes of choice.
Pouring the golden uni sauce over ditalini noodles, just slightly al dente. All images: Jake Stein.
Ingredients
Uni from 2 red sea urchins
4-6 quarts of water (for pasta)
1 (16-ounce) box of dried pasta (ditalini, macaroni, cavatappi, or small shells)
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
1 teaspoon minced garlic
1 tablespoon white wine or sake
1/4 cup heavy whipping cream or half-and-half
Salt to taste
Freshly cracked pepper
1 green onion, finely chopped (garnish)
Optional garnish ideas:
toasted nori, finely crumbled or sliced
caviar, ikura, tobiko, or masago
finely shredded cheese
a few drops of chili oil
lemon
finely chopped Italian parsley (instead of green onion)