Garlic Fried Rice with Rock Crab Butter

Have you ever heard of "crab butter"? Crab butter is a common (and unofficial) term used to describe the rich contents inside the body of a crab, under the carapace. These contents include the hepatopancreas (also called "tomalley") and in female crabs, the roe (also called "coral"). It does not include the grey gills, which are also inside the crab's carapace. Those aren't very tasty.

"Crab butter” is a raved-about culinary ingredient on many coastlines. Frankly, Western preparations often overlook the awesome ingredient power of crab innards. Intensely complex and crabby, sometimes a little sweet and sometimes a little salty and funky, they render creamy and custardy when cooked. Different species also have different properties to their crab butter.

Stir-frying the contents of the rock crab carapace with minced garlic. Image: Jake Stein.

In this recipe, we’re using both the crab butter and the meat—and doing crazy things to the Filipino breakfast staple, garlic fried rice. The flavor-packed crab butter melds perfectly with the crispy, golden garlic, creating a top tier fried rice.

Be aware that the hepatopancreas (which is a filtering organ, functioning like our liver) is where different marine toxins, as well as heavy metals, may accumulate, so it's a good idea to reasonably limit your consumption. Risks are variable by regions, habitats, and species of crabs. For instance, domoic acid (a naturally occurring marine toxin produced by algae) can temporarily build up in shellfish - occasionally leading to consumption advisory warnings along the West Coast.

Fortunately, in the case of domoic acid, commercially-caught rock crabs are regularly tested for toxicity throughout the year. The California Department of Public Health coordinates with the California Department of Fish and Wildlife (CDFW) to issue closures and advisories to coastal communities when toxicity levels exceed recommended FDA limits.

Also fortunately, here in San Diego, the "butter" from commercially caught rock crabs has not historically posed a risk as a source of domoic acid toxicity.

While this gives us some peace of mind, we do stay alert for updated information about shellfish toxin levels, because the ocean is dynamic, changing, and rather unpredictable. You can stay on top of things too by calling CDPH’s toll-free Shellfish Information Line for updated information at (800) 553-4133. Stay informed, be empowered!

San Diego Rock Crabs are sold live at local fishermen’s markets. Image: Oriana Poindexter

Garlic Fried Rice with Rock Crab Butter is ready-to-eat! Image: Jake Stein

Ingredients

• 1 female rock crab, 1 male rock crab (fresh, not frozen)

• 5 cloves garlic, peeled and minced

• 2 ½ cups day-old long grain white rice (keep at cold temperatures up until moment of cooking)

• 2 tablespoon of coconut oil or other neutral oil

• Salt to taste

• Green onion, minced (optional garnish)

How to Prepare:

1. Scrub male and female crab vigorously with a clean sponge or brush over running water, paying special attention to joints and the underside of the crab.* This removes the soft mud that many of San Diego’s rock crabs prefer as habitat.

2. Prepare a large pot or steamer over high heat, with around two inches of water. Once boiling, place the crabs within, positioning them upside-down (this keeps flavorful juices from dripping out). Cover and steam for 10 minutes.

3. Remove crabs from pot with tongs after 10 minutes and transfer to a plate to cool. Keep them upside-down. Once cool enough to handle, carefully pry the body from the carapace over a large bowl to catch liquids.

4. Use a spoon to scrape out tomalley and coral. Set aside in bowl. Pick meat from crabs and set aside in another bowl - scissors, a crab pick, and a crab cracker may be helpful, but a chopstick and a smooth rock are good substitutes for the latter two.

5. Add oil to a wok or skillet over medium-high heat. Once hot, add minced garlic and rock crab “butter.” Fry together until garlic is crisp and golden, then add cold, day-old, long-grain rice.

6. Stir vigorously to prevent garlic from burning, and to prevent rice from sticking. Cook for 4-5 minutes, tasting and adding salt.

7. Remove from heat and plate. Top with picked crab meat and garnish with green onion. Serve and eat!