Sablefish (Black Cod) Moqueca Baiana

Fresh whole sablefish in a generous bed of ice at Tuna Harbor Dockside Market in downtown San Diego. 

Photo by Oriana Poindexter.

The name “sablefish” is an even older rebrand circa 1916, when it was noted that "black cod," a name hastily bestowed on the fish in 1811, was confusing for diners, who expected something similar to the cod they were already familiar with.

Associating the fish with black sable, a luxury fur product of the time, intended to give the fish "premium luxury" vibes. The name may reference texture as well- the tiny scales that cover this fish give the skin an furry or velvety feel.

In eating experience alone, sablefish seems well-suited for a premium luxury association. It’s rich, flakey, and yes, very ‘buttery.’

Ingredients

• Whole black cod (around 2 lbs) or 1.5 pounds of fillets or steaks

• ½ onion, chopped

• 1 medium tomato, chopped

• ½ red bell pepper, chopped

• ½ green bell pepper, chopped

• 1 cup fresh cilantro, de-stemmed and chopped

• 1 cup coconut milk

• ½ cup fish broth (use your sablefish head)

• 2 tablespoons dendê oil*

• 3 cloves garlic, minced

• Salt and pepper to taste

• 1 lime

  *if you cannot find dendê oil, you can substitute with a neutral oil and 1 teaspoon of ground annato/achiote, which will impart color, but not the signature nutty flavor

Moqueca Baiana is a Brazilian stew featuring fish simmered in coconut milk, tomatoes, onions, garlic, and cilantro, and characterized by the use of ingredients of African origin: peppers, coconut milk, and palm oil (dendê), the latter giving the dish its signature bold color. This dish, which is regional to Bahia, Brazil’s northeastern state, can be traced centuries back to the meeting of African, and Portuguese cultures and cuisines. The capital, Salvador de Bahia, has an extraordinary fusion of South American and African traditions, and today is home to one of the largest populations of African descent outside of Africa itself.

Making it with locally-caught sablefish puts a San Diego twist on a beloved Brazilian dish. Black cod, also known as sablefish, has collected many monikers over the years, including the recent trend of chefs marketing it simply as "butter fish," a nod to its silky, melt-in-your-mouth texture.

Sablefish Moqueca Baiana, with a traditional side of pirão de peixe - manioc (cassava) flour cooked together with fish stock. Photo by Emily Miller.

How to Prepare:

1. Gill, gut, and scale your whole sablefish. Cut the body into steaks about 1-inch thick, and season both sides generously with salt, pepper, and minced garlic. Squeeze half a lime over the steaks and set them aside for a half hour in the refrigerator. Optionally simmer your sablefish head in 5 cups of water during that time to make all the fish broth you need.

2. Add oil to a saucepan or skillet and bring to medium heat. Add chopped onion and stir in pan until translucent (about 8 minutes).

3. Add peppers and tomatoes to soften, stirring frequently. After 3 minutes, nestle sablefish steaks into the vegetables, and add coconut milk and fish broth. Cover pan and turn down heat to a simmer. 

4. After 5 minutes, sample stew and add salt and pepper to taste. Check on steaks by inserting a fork - when steaks are falling off the bone and fully cooked, remove from heat and top dish with cilantro.

5. Serve with a side of pirão de peixe or freshly steamed long-grain rice.