Kellet’s Whelk Scungilli Salad
San Diego's local Kellet's Whelk is a sea snail that we affectionately dub, the “gateway snail.”
It's tender, it's tasteful, it's the color of the California poppy...it's beautiful. If you have a mind to try it, and you see it for sale from a local commercial fisherman, act decisively, because it is not a frequent offering at the markets. When it does make an appearance, it's either from a commercial diver, or a San Diego commercial trap fisherman who was after spiny lobster or rock crab. These sea snails are voracious carnivores, and are attracted to the crab or lobster bait - usually oily, aromatic fish heads. The commercial fishery for Kellet's Whelk has a short spring closure to protect the snails during their mating season, and is managed by the state of California to ensure catch remains below the set harvest limit.
Scungilli Salad (pronounced scoon-GEEL) is an Italian-American dish that you won’t find in the Old World. Born from Italian-American immigrant communities established on the East Coast in the early 20th century, Scungilli Salad is a traditional dish at the table during The Feast of the Seven Fishes, a cherished Christmas Eve tradition among Italian-American families. While the menu will vary from family to family, seafood remains a central theme, often adapting locally available species to traditional flavors.
The Feast of the Seven Fishes became a powerful way for newcomers to maintain a connection to their homeland, preserving a sense of cultural identity in a new country.
Ingredients (Serves 2)
8 ounces Kellet’s whelk meat (~8-12 whole whelks, depending upon size)
1 celery stalk, chopped
¼ cup red onion, chopped
1 tbsp fresh Italian parsley, chopped
½ cup green or black olives
½ lemon, juiced
1 clove garlic, minced
1/8 tsp black pepper
1/8 tsp sea salt (increase to ¼ tsp without capers)
1 tbsp capers (optional)
½ tsp red pepper flakes (optional)
1 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
Steaming & Cleaning Kellet’s Whelk
In large pot, bring water to a boil. In the meantime, scrub whelk shells with a stiff brush to remove any excess debris.
Once water is boiling, add a pinch of salt and cook whelk for 10-12 minutes. Be sure not to overcook or whelks will be tough!
Drain and let sit until cool enough to handle shells.
Insert a small knife or fork into the flesh protruding from the shell and pull gently. All of the flesh may come out, or only the edible part.
Remove the soft, curling hind portion, keeping only orange edible parts. Slice or peel off the operculum (the “door” at the entrance of the shell). .
Locate the mouth, between the two short tentacles. Insert the fillet knife into the mouth, sharp side up. Split the gut open and wash out the contents.
If desired, flesh can be pounded for added tenderness. The whelk can be eaten immediately in this recipe and others, or frozen for later use
How to Prepare
Add all the ingredients except olive oil to a medium mixing bowl and toss together.
Add olive oil and then toss together once again until combined.
Taste and add more lemon juice, salt or pepper if needed.
Refrigerate for 30 min to let flavors meld. Serve and enjoy!